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HAMPI - INDEX
Chapter 6: The Royal Centre
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Yesterday was a day like no other, i was awestruck at every single minute by Hampi. With a new dawn, came the next day plan.
It was about the exploration of the mythological kingdom of Anegundi.
Anegundi literally means Elephant's Gorge (Ane = elephant; Gundi = Gorge). The depth of the river in this area is of the height of an elephant, making it a convenient location to bathe elephants. Gundi also means ‘group’ since a stable was located here one could see elephant herds and hence the name Anegundi.
Anegundi lies across the river Tungabhadra. We have already discussed about the mythological aspect of it.
But wait a minute, when you are in Anegundi, you will be forced to think about it really being a Mythology or a History?. With all the places associated with the ancient Kishkinda, you'll hardly believe it to be a myth. If it had been myth, there wouldn't have found so well placed evidences.
We woke up early morning. Our guesthouse owner suggested to hire a moped. It's a TVS Luna. And this brand is littered all over Hampi and Anegundi.
We walked over through the market running parallel to Virupaksha temple and waited for boat. The cost of ferrying it Rs 10/- per person. It hardly takes 5 minutes.
Since ancient times, they used a type of boat for journeys across the river. It has a special place in history and the roman literature also have special mention about this circular "dinghis"
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| Cute boat! Ain't it? |
We alight from the boat, there is a steep climb leading to a bazaar. Rickshaw walah's and bike wala's (read as touts) approached us.
We already had a briefing by our guesthouse owner. Not to pay anything more than 150/- for a moped.
Hemant was of the opinion to hire a rickshaw coz he being fair, might get tan. We poked fun at his stupid reasoning and then he agreed.
We had a hard bargain from 250rs to 150rs per moped + 100rs petrol compulsory to be filled. But a wise man (read a wise tout) offered a final deal of 80rs per moped + 100rs petrol. So we agreed to the deal.
Riding a moped is fun in itself! We'd seen foreigners riding and having fun with it.
1!
We were singing songs throughout the ride! Like the way shahrukh did in deewana dil deewana!
These mopeds are rickety powered 80cc scooters. One bike per person is preferred. But we had in our groups, two noobs. One has no license and the other doesnt know how to ride in this age. Anyways, we hired three bikes for 2 people. Submitted the original PAN card to the owner and our ride begun.
There are rough patches till the main road to Anegundi. The first stop enroute was Lord Hanuman's birthplace. The Anjani temple. This mountain top is surrounded by boulders and makes a scenic backdrop. This might be the reason why Hanuman's mother Anjani selected a place for her meditation and inturn got Hanuman as the boon from Shiva.
See that White temple at the top? That's Hanuman's birthplace and that's where we are heading!
We parked our mopeds at the base. There you hit to the steps. It's a steep climb. It takes half hour of sweating walk. But the view en-route is rewarding. The Tungabhadra river takes sharp turns admist the green mountains dotted by brown boulders, is indeed a spectacular view. Whenever we ran out of our breath, we looked back and the scenery took away our breath away. :)
Panorama. Dark clouds were hovering over. The sun was playing hide and seek and the blue skies made it an ideal day for photography
The climb involves aerobics apart from the regular cardio. There are boulders which block your way upstairs.You have to cross beneath boulders and that too, quickly.
All through the climb, these stairs are filled with Jai Hanuman and Jai Shri ram quotes. Seems like i am crossing the Ram-setu into the Lankan kingdom.
After half hour of grueling trek in the harsh sun, we finally reached to the top. I was expecting a big temple,as this is a significant place for Hindus. Just to surprise, it was a small shrine, painted in white with the saffron flag flying high. Where most of the temples in this area have drama and excitement carved over, this simple temple looks really cute and full marks for its location.
It overlooks the Tungabhadra rivers snaking and making way through those lofty mountains full of brown boulders. And the best bet is, you can have the temple and entire scenery in one single pano frame!
As in other temples, photography is prohibited inside. The temple has a "Swayambu" (self made) Hanuman idol. And just to burst the myth that Kishninda is a mythological kingdom, there were hundreds of Monkeys en-route those stairs and around the temple. These were the descendants of the "wanar's" of Hanuman's Wanar-sena (the monkey army which supported Rama).
Opposite to the entrance, are giant boulders. Climb it and you're come across a spectacular panorama.
To the opposite side is another spectacular scenery.
Dipali's health was deteriorating due to acidity and we decided to take a break. Meanwhile, we noticed the Langar (Free food for all) been served and we joined in. The menu was Dal and rice. When food is made with such devotion and dedication to god, it had to be tasty! With our belly full, we began the descend. Within 10 mins we were at the base.
After a brief sutta break, kick started our bikes and we headed to our next destination, the Pampa sarovar.
As in other temples, photography is prohibited inside. The temple has a "Swayambu" (self made) Hanuman idol. And just to burst the myth that Kishninda is a mythological kingdom, there were hundreds of Monkeys en-route those stairs and around the temple. These were the descendants of the "wanar's" of Hanuman's Wanar-sena (the monkey army which supported Rama).
Opposite to the entrance, are giant boulders. Climb it and you're come across a spectacular panorama.
To the opposite side is another spectacular scenery.
Dipali's health was deteriorating due to acidity and we decided to take a break. Meanwhile, we noticed the Langar (Free food for all) been served and we joined in. The menu was Dal and rice. When food is made with such devotion and dedication to god, it had to be tasty! With our belly full, we began the descend. Within 10 mins we were at the base.
After a brief sutta break, kick started our bikes and we headed to our next destination, the Pampa sarovar.
Pampa sarovar means Pampa (Consort of Shiva) and Sarovar meaning lake. It is a quite lake and there's nothing much to see here. Neverthless, the reflection of boulders into the lake looks beautiful.
There's a temple of Pampa devi here. It is vividly painted. It doesnt look like its ancient but legend says so. It is indeed beautiful.
There's a temple of Pampa devi here. It is vividly painted. It doesnt look like its ancient but legend says so. It is indeed beautiful.
I thought that it for this place. But Sachin came rushing to me. He said, i'll show you something special. and he took me through the above steps. And then a small chamber where they are Lord Ram's Foot prints!
Sachin is an ardent fan of Mythological stories and it is here, he explained us the site of Lord Ram and Vali's final battle at Anegundi.
Then there is a map of India which shows Lord Ram's journey across the sub-continent during his lifetime.
There was a banyan tree. We thought of giving it a try to mimick our biological ancestors!
Look at the girls in background watching us :p
Our next stop was a local temple. And it is really local. I think it should be skipped. Interesting to see coconuts being tied in colourful cloth and then tied to banyan tree.
Another km or so, we were at the gates of Anegundi village.
And there was a standing statue of the great king "Krishna devaraya". Our icon. He had won a special place in our hearts through his splendid display show of arts and architecture. We folded our hands in Namaste and gave him a bow. We prayed to him, he was none the less than God.
Just as you are in, there is a make shift Chariot. No, this is not a stone chariot as in Vitthala temple, it is a wooden one.
The Sri RanganathaSwamy Temple gate, Anegundi.
I then proceeded to The Vitthala temple crossing the Tungabhadra river.
Some random pics;
I saw my wrist watch. OMG its already 5 PM. We have to rush back to the guest house, pack our bags and catch the Kolhapur-Hyderabad express from Hospet junction at 7:30pm. 
Then there is a map of India which shows Lord Ram's journey across the sub-continent during his lifetime.
There was a banyan tree. We thought of giving it a try to mimick our biological ancestors!
Look at the girls in background watching us :p
Our next stop was a local temple. And it is really local. I think it should be skipped. Interesting to see coconuts being tied in colourful cloth and then tied to banyan tree.
Another km or so, we were at the gates of Anegundi village.
And there was a standing statue of the great king "Krishna devaraya". Our icon. He had won a special place in our hearts through his splendid display show of arts and architecture. We folded our hands in Namaste and gave him a bow. We prayed to him, he was none the less than God.
Just as you are in, there is a make shift Chariot. No, this is not a stone chariot as in Vitthala temple, it is a wooden one.
The Sri RanganathaSwamy Temple gate, Anegundi.
I then proceeded to The Vitthala temple crossing the Tungabhadra river.
Some random pics;
With all the heartfelt panoramas of Anegundi, our journey concluded with the final bow to the great king Krishnadevaraya. The last 10 minutes, we rushed to Virupaksha temple. Had a good look again and bid adieu.
There was a lot of pic processing to be done since all the shots are in RAW format. I was sure, this journey would resonate for a long time. And i am sure, i would visit Hampi once again.
As always, i end up giving few tips about the do's and dont's.
1) 2 days DO NOT do justice to this place. Plan for atleast 3 days. We were in shoe strings hence could not explore those temples in details.
2) Hire a knowledgeable guides. If temples are your interest, you can stay put for a month also!
3) At times, if you are sensitive to religious issue, you might generate a sense of hatred for the community who destroyed Vijayanagar. Stay calm, that was just a power tussle.
4) I was having a chat with the owner, and had ordered a tea. Incidentally, the issue of cleanliness popped up. And i said, this place is very clean as compared to others. Yes, he said and pulled out a plastic cup for tea. I said, "Give me tea, in that glass cup". Do not encourage the use of plastic.
5) Keep a tab on demolition status of guest houses. The Hampi market area is illegal and can anymoment be brought to dust by the authorities. A day before call to guesthouse is recommended.
6) Bears are spotted at Hemakunta hill. Just beware.
7) Do not venture out in the streets at night.
8) Cows are a menace, they literally come and snatch bananas from your hand. They are naughty breed. Monkeys in Anegundi can be a challenge if you show them food.
9) Thank god that there is no booze available in Hampi market. But you can get once you cross the tungabhadra river.
Really awesome....good informative and E-travel to Hampi :)
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