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HAMPI - INDEX
HAMPI - INDEX
Chapter 6: The Royal Centre
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Intro and History:
While writing this blog, i am confused where to begin with! All that is hovering over the quite chambers my grey cells are the magical temples, stunning landscapes and the peace that Hampi offered..
They say " Travel leaves you speechless and then turns you into a story teller". Quite true. Coz i am shocked, astonished and flabbergasted by Hampi and i am sharing this wonderful story about Hampi with you..
Generally, people discover about Hampi (erst while : Vijaynagar) through travel guides or through travel websites coz places like these are not generic like the Tajmahal or Kashmir. Hampi is one of the few places which are worth to be discovered.
The first mention of Hampi i came across was through Indiamike.com It was one of the many "famous" hangout places amongst the foreigners visiting India. As a matter of fact, much more than Indians! So i was curious what's this hippy hangout all about? On similar lines, i had visited Pushkar a year ago out of sheer curiosity.. Well it seems i am seeing my home through a foreign eyes.
My journey to hampi began on a a different (read as spiritual) note.
I am a devotee of Vitthala (One of Lord Vishnu's avatar.) Pandharpur is his adobe and is located on the banks of Bhima river. Maharashtra's beloved god, Vitthala is most worshiped here. Since it in on border with Karnataka and AP, there are lot of devotees from both states. The sect which worships Vitthala from Karnataka and AP are called as "Haridasa sect"
Many poets and saints who have profound influence of Maharashtra's history, religion, and psyche of its people are devotees of Vitthala. Few inflentials include Saint Dnyaneshwar, Tukaram, Eknath.
All saints have composed hyms and songs in praise of Vitthala. These lines are called "Sant-wani" (Devotional poems) dedicated to Vitthala.
One such poem caught my attention. It was penned down by 16th century Saint "Eknath".
The first two verse goes as follows;
पांडुरंगकांती दिव्य तेज झळकती ।
रत्नकीळ फांकती प्रभा ।
अगणित लावण्य तेजःपुंजाळले ।
न वर्णवे तेथींची शोभा ॥१॥
कानडा हो विठ्ठलु कर्नाटकु ।
तेणें मज लावियला वेधु ।
खोळ बुंथी घेऊनि खुणाची पालवी ।
आळविल्या नेदी सादु ॥२॥
रत्नकीळ फांकती प्रभा ।
अगणित लावण्य तेजःपुंजाळले ।
न वर्णवे तेथींची शोभा ॥१॥
कानडा हो विठ्ठलु कर्नाटकु ।
तेणें मज लावियला वेधु ।
खोळ बुंथी घेऊनि खुणाची पालवी ।
आळविल्या नेदी सादु ॥२॥
The underlined line reads in marathi as "Kannadau vitthala, karnataku" (Oh, this Kannadi Vitthala from Karnataka..)
I always wondered, Vitthala is god of maharashtra, where he has 6 million marathi devotees, how on earth then is Vitthala a Kannadi? (People of Karnataka called as kannadi).
This curiosity existed since childhood but it was recently that i dug deep into this and was redirected to Hampi.
I always wondered, Vitthala is god of maharashtra, where he has 6 million marathi devotees, how on earth then is Vitthala a Kannadi? (People of Karnataka called as kannadi).
This curiosity existed since childhood but it was recently that i dug deep into this and was redirected to Hampi.
Google came to rescue. All the links pointed to one glorious Hindu empire which swept across southern India in 13th century and ruled over for 250 years, The Vijaynagara empire!
Two brothers who threw off their alliance with Muslim rulers and established an independent kingdom in southern India, the Hakka and Bukka brothers!
Hakka was the empire's first king followed by Bukka. These belonged to Sangama dynasty.
The lineage is as follows;
Apart from being a key player in political powerplay, the vijaynagara empire was also known for its astonishing art work. The leftovers by Chalukyas art experiments in pattakdukal and Aihole were further polished by this empire in its own territory. The capital of this huge empire was Vijaynagara (the city of victory). Now called as Hampi.
This is a place where jewels and diamonds were sold out in its open bazaars. Where traders as far as Rome, China and Indonesia could linger, all under one roof. Historians argue that this was worlds best city in 16th century.
Majority of the glorious achievements, be it in politics or arts or architecture are attributed to a king, under who's presence, vijaynagara rose to splendid heights! Bow down to thee, Krishnadevaraya!
Majority of the glorious achievements, be it in politics or arts or architecture are attributed to a king, under who's presence, vijaynagara rose to splendid heights! Bow down to thee, Krishnadevaraya!
Well, we need rulers like him today. People were self-sufficient, educated, religious, secular, no poor on streets. His vision for arts, literature and his love for Telugu language is evident all over the ruins.
As the Muslim conquest threatened sanatana dharma in the north, the invading armies ransacked Hindu temples trying to destroy its indigenous culture. As they inched closer to Maharashtra, Krishnadevaraya in a quick move, shifted the prestigious idol of Vitthala from Pandharpur to Vijaynagara.
One you have a prestigious idol, you got to build a splendid temple! In this quest , krishnadevaraya built a spectacle, which was unmatched in terms of artwork - The Vitthala temple in Hampi!
The lord stayed in this splendid temple for 10 years. But the people of Pandharpur were discontent since the their beloved god had been moved.
One saint rose for the cause and embarked on joureny to bring the lord back. His name was "Bhanudas". He requested the Vijaynagar king to re-install the idol back in pandharpur temple. The king agreed.
Incidently, Bhanudas was grandfather of Saint Eknath who penned these lines, "Kannada hu Vitthalu".
Now the mystery surrounding the temple was un-earthed, the attraction had already begun afterall, its my beloved god Vitthala's second home. No less than a pilgrimage to me.
History:
Before i begin with the my journey of hampi exploration, lets first learn its history.
There are Two phases of Hampi history.
1) Ramayana (Ancient phase)
2) The Vijaynagara empire.
1) Ramayana : To the other side of Hampi market across the Tungabhadara river, stands a mythical kingdom of Kishkinda, referred in Ancient text of Ramayana. The chapter of Kishkinda plays a decisive role in Ram's story of bringing sita back from Lanka.
Hampi, traditionally known as Pampa kshetra, Kishkindha kshetra. Pampa is shiva's consort and is widely worshiped in this region. Pampa is the ancient name of the river Tungabhadra. The ancient Kishkindha of the Ramayana is believed to have been situated close to present day Hampi.
Kishkindha was ruled two brothers, the famous monkey kings, Bali (Vali) and Sugreev.
Bali was very powerful and had defeated king Ravana before. The kingdom had a traditional enemy called "Mayavee". Mayavee was a menace, hence Bali decided to settle the score for once in all. He and mayaveek took each other head on inside a cave and sugreev was asked to guard wait outside and guard the cave. The war turned out to be too long than expected. And nearly after a year of fighting, the sounds waned. Sugreev was in impression that his elder brother and mayavee have been killed and hence decided to preside over the kingdom. Sugreev married to Bali's wife and became the ruler.
Bali on other hand was not dead, he defeated mayavee and came out of the cave just to be surprised that his yuounger brother sat on the throne and took his wife away. Angrerd, Bali was in no mood to listen to the misunderstanding. He declared war on Sugreeva.
Lord Rama was on his quest to liberate sita from clutches of Ravana, had halted in Kishkinda. Sugreev approached lord Rama and explained the misunderstanding that had took. Lord Rama offered him help in case of war and inturn sugreev will provide his monkey army to help locate sita. Lord Hanuman was the leader of the Monkey army. Sigriva was driven out, took refuge on the Matanga hill, along with Hanuman. The war broke out, Rama intervened and killed Vali and restored to Sugriva his kingdom and then stayed on the Malyavanta Hill nearby awaiting the results of Hanuman's search for Sita in Lanka.
2) The Vijaynagara empire : Hampi was capital of Vijaynagar built by Hakka and bukka brothers. Hampi, built in the year 1336 flourished and had a population of over half a million. The city was important for the traders but also for devotees and poets. There were temples built in hundreds, which stand as an evidence to the religious inclination of Hampi.
Winston churchill once said : "The sun never sets in British empire" but it did. So did in case of Hampi. After seeing its golden reign during King Krishna Deva Raya (AD 1509 - 1529), Hampi fell down in a lighting thunder to the attacks of the confederacy of five Sultans of Deccan - Bidar, Bijapur, Golconda, Ahmednagar and Berar in the year 1565. The city was looted for a period of 6 months. The temples were destroyed and the markets were plundered. The golden empire had come to an end, at the stroke of midnight.
However, the area was regained by the later rulers of same empire but of different dynasty, the capital was moved and Hampi was abandoned, left to synchronize with nature and only to be rediscovered by the british.
Religion :
As this was the largest hindu kingdom, the official religion was hindu but the behaviour of the kingdom was secular. The kingdom had muslims, christians of kerala and goa under its dominions all under equal rights.
The adherents of Hindu religion in Hampi region were of "Shaivaite" cult (Shiva is supreme god). Shiva and her consort being "Pampa". The Tungabhadra river is also called as Pampa.
King krishnadevaraya shifted his cult from Shaivaite to Vaishnavaite thus giving birth to the Haridasa sect. Krishnadevaraya built hundreds of temples, many of them being Vaishnavaite (Vishu worshipping people).
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